Afajita

[Originally written on March 9, 2006]

Ever since moving to Phnom Penh I have been grumbling non-stop about how ugly this country is. A city once full of trees is now mainly covered by dirt roads and concrete. Waking up, looking out the window at a trash laden ally has put a damper on my day, everyday, for the last year and a half. The constant sound pollution of construction, motos, and worst of all horrible Karaoke music has made silence and solitude impossible.  It’s been one and a half years of struggle wondering if I would ever come to enjoy this place, wondering if I would ever find anything pleasant in a country raped of beauty.

A few months ago, Ben and Sharon came back from a trip to Kep urging us to go with them sometime this year. They claimed that it was a beautiful place. I had my doubts. Why would I want to go to this “has been” beachside town that now has nothing including no electricity? However, they convinced us and this past weekend Danny, Silas and I found ourselves going to Kep with our friends. Surprisingly, it was by far the most beautiful place I have been to in Cambodia. Never before have I seen the ocean abutting mountains and lush forest.   In the morning, the still, blue ocean water against the deep green forest was surrounded by white mist and brilliant blue sky. It was simply breathtaking. For the first time since we’ve moved to Cambodia I finally believed, Cambodia is beautiful!

This formerly popular beachside town consists of one paved road which runs along the beach. During the French colonial period, this road was lined with magnificent vacation homes once occupied by privileged Khmer families. But because the area is surrounded by dense forest and mountains, it became a Khmer Rouge strong hold in the 1970’s. The owners of these homes either fled or were killed. The abandoned villas are now destroyed, burnt-out concrete shells. They seem completely neglected; but at a second glance one will realize that they are currently occupied by poor, squatter families who have no where else to camp out. These days there isn’t much going on in Kep other than fishing.

This sight is rather eerie to say the least. It caused me to ponder on Jerusalem during the Babylonian exile when all the rich and educated were either killed or brought into captivity; leaving the poor behind to fend for themselves. It’s been about 25 years since the Khmer Rouge had control over this area and it is just starting to feel like it’s recovering.

pictures of our weekend in Kep.