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self-medication

PollenCambodia is a country of unlicensed pharmacies, untrained pharmacists, incompetent doctors and counterfeit medicines. The government claims that it is addressing these issues. Unfortunately it will be years, possibly decades, before we see significant change.

In the meantime I’ve had to adjust by becoming my own doctor. I’ve really had no choice since there is no doctor that I trust within a 2 hour drive. Thankfully, making use of the “Idiot’s Guide to Self Medication” (at least that is what it should be entitled) and Google, I’ve been able to lick every ailment … except one. My allergies.

Allergies are not new to me. What’s new is the severity. During the last month and half I’ve had two, possibly three, nights of uninterrupted sleep. Typically, I go to sleep without incident but wake up between 2 and 3 am with a multi-hour sneezing fit. My misery has been growing in direct proportion to the mounting sleep deficit.

In response, I began to experiment. The first batch of generic Zyrtec was from Korea and seemed to work well (defined as sleeping through the night 10% of the time). My second batch of Korean Zyrtec, from a different company, was a dud. I think it was counterfeit. I switched to generic Indian Allegra which was also a dud. I think it was counterfeit as well. In desperation, I went to one of the few modern pharmacies in Phnom Penh that cater to foreigners. There I doled out the big bucks and bought what I believe to be genuine Zyrtec and Allegra, made in Europe. So far the Allegra seems to be working.

Spotting counterfeit drugs has become something of a hobby for me. My technique is primarily linguistic analysis. If English words are misspelled or the grammar is garbled, I assume it’s a fake. On rare occasion I’ve come across Italian medicine which is also amenable to this type of examination. Unfortunately for me the packaging and instructions are often in French, which is a challenge because I’ve never studied the language. Then there are the times when the drugs have everything written in Vietnamese or Thai. During those moments I have no option but to go on faith.

When I need to exercise my faith in this way, at least I have one consolation. I’m grateful the meds didn’t come from China!

christmas in cambodia

Silas with Candy CaneA surprising number of folks have asked what we did for Christmas this year. Here’s the scoop…

On December 15 we had an InnerCHANGE Christmas party at some teammates’ house in Phnom Penh. It was a blast! We sang songs, Anita shared a Christmas devotional in Khmer, we ate delicious food and played all sorts of games. The kids were even given candy canes at the end!

ICKCC Christmas TreeCassia Silas Christmas TreeSince Silas is at the age where he might start remembering things, Anita and I decided to be more intentional about developing family traditions. Accordingly, we made the putting up of our Christmas tree on December 16 a big deal. Specifically, we decided to let Silas & Cassia do as much of the setting up as possible. Since the tree is only 24 inches tall though, I thought they might be disappointed. Thankfully, they thought it was the bomb. Maybe they were just thankful it was better than the 18 inch Christmas tree in our office downstairs.

Preparation for Christmas Prison OutreachThe morning of December 19, a crew of 7 showed up to prepare curry for our Christmas outreach the next morning at the Prison. I never would have imagined how much work goes into preparing food for 700 people. They worked straight through the blazing mid-day heat and into the night. At 2:00 AM I woke up and heard them still working outside. When I saw them the next morning they hadn’t slept at all.

Kompong Cham Prisoners in their CellOur staff arrived by 6:00 am on the 20th and everyone pitched in with last minute preparations. By 7:30 we had packed up the truck, motos and car and were off to the prison. Our event consisted of dances, music, short speeches, and an explanation of the meaning of Christmas. Afterward we delivered gift packs (with soap, shampoo, detergent, toothpaste, and toothbrushes) and curry with baguettes to each inmate in their cell. In the very last cell I met an inmate who was 8 years old.

Kachahn Waterfall RatanakiriThe morning of the 22nd we, along with our friends from Malaysia, boarded a bus for a 10 hour journey to Ratanakiri in North East Cambodia. There we stayed in an Eco Lodge where Anita claims to have seen a six inch spider and where the mosquito nets served to protect us from giant fire ants as much as the mosquitoes. On the 24th our friends gave Silas and Cassia some Christmas gifts. Cassia didn’t know what was going on but Silas was enthralled by his jet plane and phone/car/robot transformer. Aside from that, we spent our two full days in Ratanakiri exploring waterfalls, swimming in Lake Yak Loum, and eating Swedish meatballs, schnitzel and mashed potatoes.

Silas Christmas LunchChristmas morning we woke up early, not because the kids wanted to open presents but, because we had to catch the 6:00 am shuttle to the bus station. We boarded the bus by 6:30 and sat down to eat our Christmas breakfast of baguettes and bananas. The ride began with the showing of the only movie I’ve seen that is worse than Zoolander, “The Mad Monk“. That was followed by 8 1/2 hours of Khmer karaoke at the preferred Cambodian volume which is PAINFULLY LOUD. Somewhere along the road we decided to have lunch so we busted out with the Malaysian “Red Meat” jerky. A little later the bus broke down for half an hour and later still I had an episode of diarrhea with the associated cold sweats, dizziness and weakness. Thankfully, I took pepto, had Silas pray for me and felt better within 15-20 minutes.

Cassia Silas Christmas PresentsWe arrived home a little before 5 pm. Trakouen, our helper / nanny, prepared pasta for dinner and had baked carrot bread AND banana coffee bread because she was bored while we were gone. God bless her! We ate dinner, put a candle in a cupcake, sang happy birthday to Jesus and then moved on to the gift opening. Silas & Cassia opened up the gifts they received from their grandparents and family in America. Again Cassia didn’t know what was going on while Silas reveled in childhood bliss. Finally, after bathing, we watched “How the Grinch Stole Christmas!” and went to bed.

endless summer

kompong cham sunsetAfter work today I took a bike ride along the riverfront with Silas. As I pedaled along, I had one of those “all is right with the world” moments. It was cool, breezy and remarkably serene. The Mekong was placid, traffic was non-existent, the the pristine azure sky was dotted with kites, and the sun was just beginning to set. This experience triggered childhood memories of the waning days of summer vacation. Each year, with the days growing shorter, the weather becoming cooler, and school’s beginning nearer, I came to accept that my “endless summer” was coming to a close.

The parallels between my childhood summers and the last 3 ½ years in Cambodia are many. The most obvious of course is the weather. It’s now been, with one exception, nearly four years since I’ve felt cold. (That exception was an evening spent sledding with Silas at Snow City.) Due to the perpetual warm weather, I can enjoy year round “summer” activities such as water park excursions and birthday pool parties. Last year we even had a BBQ on Christmas.

The most significant parallel though is also the most intangible. The last 3½ years here have felt like an endless summer because I’ve enjoyed enjoyed them so much. Though this certainly hasn’t been a vacation, the joys of living and serving here have far outweighed the costs. Perhaps joy isn’t the right word. I think contentment is what I’m really experiencing. I am content to a degree that I never thought possible. Since moving to Kampong Cham I’ve often found myself gushing forth extended prayers of gratitude because life is so amazingly sweet. It therefore saddens me that my endless summer is coming to a close. In the past 2 weeks I have begun to grieve leaving. It almost doesn’t seem possible that that I may never return to Cambodia when I leave this May or June.

On one level, I am tempted to simply stay. Anita and I could get other jobs here which would be just as “Christian” and possibly may even pay more. Silas could enroll in the international school, and Cassia could also grow up bilingual. Fortunately, I never allow myself more than a brief moment to indulge in these fantasies. Just as surely as I know that God called us here I am sure that he is now calling us to leave. Since we are followers of the Way, I know that submission to will of God is the only real way forward. Continued contentment is not dependent upon being in Cambodia but on being in sync with God.

For now my biggest struggle is to live in the present. This is often challenging since my entire job is prepare for the day when I’m no longer around. It takes effort to think about next year in the States just enough to be responsible but without becoming obsessively speculative. In other words, I’m struggling to enjoy summer while it lasts.

plague or blessing?

Reed FrogEvery morning our Sunrise staff have devotions, part of which is a reflection on a scripture reading. Last week we read Exodus 8:1-11, regarding the plague of frogs that God brought upon Egypt. As usual, the question was asked, “Meeun avay klah dial jahp arohm?“, which loosely translated means, “Is there anything here that spoke to you?”

Being quite a heavy passage to meditate on in the morning, I wasn’t surprised that our staff were more pensive than usual. After a few minutes of silence one of the house moms spoke up and said, “Am I the only one wondering why this is considered a plague? I mean, come on, it’s free food!”

Laughter errupted all around followed by the swapping of frog recipes. “I REALLY like grilled frog legs! They’re much better than chicken.” “Oooh, have you ever had frog soup, now that’s really good, but you have to know how to make it.” …

O Reang Ov

biogas production systemToday I traveled with our Home Based Care (HBC) staff to O Reang Ov, a district about 30 miles outside of Kompong Cham City. As always, I appreciated getting out of my routine of writing reports, checking finances, and writing thank you notes. Spending the day with various clients in the countryside is always sobering and serves as a healthy reminder of why we do what we do. Three scenes left a particularly strong impression on me.

Scene 1: Intake

Part of the purpose of this trip was to meet with two potential new HBC clients. After chit chatting for a few minutes, Dr. Mony and Bora, his assistant, whipped out their intake forms and began asking the husband a series of questions. Here are some of the more memorable answers …

  • What’s your name? Dy Sokah
  • How old are you? 33
  • How many years of schooling did you complete? 3
  • How many siblings do you have? 12
  • How many are still living? 3
  • Do you have any children? Yes, a boy and a girl.
  • How old is the boy and through what grade did he study? He’s 12 and studied through third grade.
  • How old is the girl and through what grade did she study? She’s 10 and studied through second grade.
  • What do you do for work? I’m a farmer / laborer.
  • How much do you make per day? 8,000 riel (2USD), but I’m too weak to work every day so I work one day and rest for a few before I can work another.
  • Where do you live? With my father-in-law. (This is very common in Cambodia.)

A few minutes later we walked over to their home to see their living situation. Their house was a thatched awning, about 9 feet long and 5 feet wide, attached to the back of the father-in-law’s house. There were no walls (except for the one shared with the house), and no possessions except a platform for the whole family sleep on, a torn mosquito net, a pot for cooking rice, rice, salt, two plates, a few spoons and a knife.

Scene 2: Hospitality

After visiting a few families and meeting with some local officials, we stopped for lunch. When we finished eating, Bora asked us, “Do you want get back to work immediately or do you want to rest first?” Of course, since we’re all used to getting 2 ½ hour lunch breaks, we answered, “Let’s rest first.” I thought we were going to seek out one of the many places where people can rent a hammock for a few cents to take their afternoon snooze. Bora surprised me when he stopped in front of a hammockless house and said “Let’s go in. It’s a Catholic school, they’ll let us rest here.”

Sure enough, when we told them that we were Christians and were traveling through the countryside to assist the HIV positive poor, they welcomed us in. In less than a minute she laid out the sleeping mats, gave us all pillows, and told us to get some rest before we headed back out. I closed my eyes to rest for a few minutes but when I opened them again, I found that I had slept for an hour.

Scene 3: Biogas
Early in the day Bora mentioned that there was a family nearby that used cow manure to produce methane for cooking. Since I have grave concerns over the clear cutting of forests to produce charcoal (which is the traditional cooking fuel used in Cambodia), I was excited to hear about this news. I told Bora I saw a TV program one night that examined the production of biogas from pig manure in rural China and was glad that the technology had seeped into Cambodia. That’s when Bora asked, “Do you want to see it?” “Of course!”, I answered.

When we had finished our HBC visits, Bora was true to his word and brought me to see biogas production in action. It wasn’t until we arrived that I realized that Bora didn’t really know the owners of the house. Hospitality must be a local virtue because they gladly gave us the grand tour anyway. Behind the house there was an enormous open pit of, well, you know what. Between the pit and the house there was an underground cistern/gas chamber and a cylindrical opening for adding fresh manure and water. It was quite an underwhelming experience because it seemed so ordinary and the open pit (from which they would make fertilizer) was quite gross. It was interesting though that there wasn’t even a hint of the odor that I expected would overpower me.

In contrast, the inside of the house was amazing. It was the first Cambodian house I’ve seen that didn’t have its stove connected to a gas tank but rather had a gas line coming in from the outside. As our host boiled water to make tea, she joyfully explained that they have never run out of gas and have saved countless dollars by not buying charcoal. Then to really show off she said, “Look at this!” and lit a surprisingly bright gas lamp. She said that her children can read by this light and, since the TV uses costly electricity while the lamp uses free gas, she encourages her children to read. I love it!

Later, as we sat on the floor drinking tea, I asked an endless series of questions regarding her family’s experience with this technology and how it is perceived by the neighbors. Though there was widespread skepticism and even snickering at first, everyone seems to have come around. While I was encouraged that two other families had already built their own methane production systems, I was saddened that the majority of the others simply stare in envy because they can’t afford the $375 price tag.

Tagged

one laptop per child

OLPC XO laptopA few days ago I sent an update to our prayer supporters sharing about One Laptop Per Child (OLPC). In response, a good friend asked, “I was wondering what you think are the primary benefits of this program and why we should support it. Why not, for instance, support building libraries with computers? It sounds like a worthy cause, but I also wasn’t sure what YOU thought were the reasons why we should support it.

I’m so glad she asked! Here are 7 reasons why I’m excited about the OLPC program … at least at this experimental stage. Please feel free to critique my arguments since I always appreciate having my thoughts challenged by others.

  1. Infrastructure: The OLPC program doesn’t rely heavily on infrastructure. If the web is available, the XO laptops can take advantage of it. If it’s not, that’s fine too. The laptops are able to create mesh networks on their own, without the need for the Internet. So school children can communicate, collaborate, and share without the need for telecommunications infrastructure. They also use nominal amounts of electricity as compared to regular laptops and desktops which will help not to overload already stressed out electrical infrastructure.
  2. Environment: Environments like Cambodia severely shorten a computer’s lifespan. This is due in part to the heat, in part to the dust, and in part to insects which love to climb around inside computers. OLPC laptops are engineered with this in mind and are built with less parts, and without the parts that break most often, so they are more suitable for this environment.
  3. Theft: If a country is saturated with the same product, it should (hopefully) be less tempting to steal. Typical computers, especially laptops, are very tempting to steal but, if every child in Cambodia has one already, it might be less of a problem. The XO laptops’ unique design and color are also deterrents to theft or redirection into the black market.
  4. Pedagogy: Children are natural learners and have an amazing ability to learn by doing and playing. Giving a child their own laptop enables him/her to become comfortable enough with it that they can play with it, tweak it, and learn how it works. I’ve seen the alternative (training adults how to use specific programs like Excel) and it is amazingly ineffective. This method produces automatons who lack intuition for how computers work and are afraid to try something novel with software that they use every day.
  5. Liberation: Cambodia is addicted to Microsoft. Unfortunately, it can’t afford this addiction since one legally licensed version of MS Office costs a year’s salary. There is also the ethical problem of piracy. Cambodians are forced to buy pirated software because legal software cannot be found. (I wrote Microsoft to ask them if they had an authorized reseller in Cambodia and they told me the closest reseller was in Thailand.) In addition to the economic and ethical problems with using Microsoft software here, there is a linguistic problem. There is a complete Linux distribution entirely in Khmer but MS doesn’t sell an OS or even a program for Khmer. There are additional technical problems surrounding the typing of Khmer script which I won’t get into here except to say that MS is again holding back the development of computer literacy while Linux would allow it to quickly accelerate. All of this relates back to the OLPC program because the XO laptop uses open source software, which for numerous reasons in addition to those mentioned above, is the only real option for Cambodia’s future.
  6. Population: There are only 14-15 million Khmer speakers in the world. Even if most were literate (they are not) and wealthy enough to purchase textbooks (they are not), it would be a challenge to find ways to print teaching materials in a cost effective manner. Using E-books, like the XO, allows for the rapid dissemination of new books, information updates, etc. It also eliminates the economic waste of books ruined due to flooding, consumption by insects, etc. Not incidentally and leading directly into the following point, the small population size makes it a manageable size case study.
  7. Ideal Case Study: While there are poorer countries in the world, it’s unlikely that many are less educated or have a writing system less well adapted to computer use. If the OLPC program can produce some quantitatively measurable educational success here, then I think it is fair to say that it could have success anywhere.

Whoa, I’ve convinced myself that this really is a good idea. I’m going to buy an XO laptop today. =)

what’s a hot dog?

Silas eating first hot dogFor the past three days ago we’ve had guests stay with us at here at Sunrise. For some reason one of them brought packaged hot dogs from Phnom Penh. Being sweet, she asked, “Silas, do you hot dogs?” Much to her surprise he answered, “What’s a hot dog?”

Last night I told Silas, “Tomorrow is a special day in America. Do you know what it is?” “I don’t know,” he answered. “It’s a kids’ holiday called Halloween. On that day kids in America can put on costumes and knock on people’s doors to get candy and chocolate. What do you think about that?” He shouted, “That makes me happy!”

This morning he put on Anita’s helmet and transformed himself into ‘Evil Emperor Zurg’. This was his very first Halloween costume. Then, for dinner tonight, Silas got his first taste of hot dogs. Apparently he loved them because he downed 3 10-inch hot dogs all by himself!

In retrospect, I can’t believe how excited I was to expose him these little bits of American culture. I mean, who in the world takes pictures of his kid eating hot dogs for the first time?

48 hours in singapore

WARNING: This entry may contain more information than you ever wanted to know about my private life.

Living in a place like Cambodia means that we need to maximize every opportunity we have to spend time in developed countries. Since, by any estimation, Singapore would be counted among the most developed countries, we had a laundry list of tasks to accomplish. The first was medical (I wanted to get “snipped”), the second was academic (I had to take the GREs), the third was social (we wanted to catch up with friends), and the fourth was our desire for a “civilization fix”.

From the start I knew that the getting all of these accomplished was going to be difficult and that some compromises would be needed. The biggest problem was that the hospital insisted that I get snipped at the beginning of my stay so as to have enough time for a one week follow-up appointment.

My troubles began with my first bout of diarrhea the first night in Singapore. The next morning I did my best to hide my diarrhea from the hospital staff for fear that they wouldn’t perform the surgery if they knew I was sick. I was successful and, just 24 hours after landing in Singapore, was snipped. As I rested in the recovery room, reality kicked in and I began thinking, “What have I done? I have to take the GREs tomorrow!”

That night was interesting to say the least. I felt like an elephant had stepped on my crotch and was still having bouts of diarrhea. I was glad when I was finally able to go sleep. I slept remarkably well until about 2:45 when Silas woke up crying inconsolably. I felt his side of the bed and realized it was soaked. After a while Anita figured out that water was leaking from the ceiling. Between one thing and another, I wasn’t able to go back to sleep until after 5:30.

I woke up a bit late, took too long at breakfast, and foolishly took the subway rather than a taxi. By the time I arrived near the test center, I was already 10 minutes late. It took me an additional 20 minutes to hail a cab and get to the test center. When I arrived at the test center, the staff informed me that I was late and made me sign an affidavit of sorts stating that I arrived late due to my own stupidity. They checked my ID and wanted to rush me into the test room but I protested because I felt yet another episode of diarrhea coming on. Thankfully I only had to go to the bathroom once more during the test.

There must a God in heaven because I was able to perform rather well on the GREs despite have a vasectomy 20 hours earlier, struggling with diarrhea, and having a stressful and sleepless night the night before.

When complaining about these events to Anita afterward she reminded that it could have been much worse. She said, “Hey, you were the one who wanted to come here during Ramadan. So in addition to getting snipped, having Big D, and have the water pour from the ceiling while you were sleeping, you could have been dehydrated, hungry, and physically exhausted too!”

mama’s boy

Today Silas was sick with a mysterious fever and so was not his normal, hyperactive self. He spent most of the day in bed and while awake was clinging to Anita constantly.

Shortly before dinner time Silas said, “I want to take a bath with mama.” Here’s the conversation that ensued:

Danny: “How about if you take a bath with daddy tonight?”

Silas: “No, I want to take a bath with mama.”

Danny: “Come on buddy, let me give you a bath. It’ll be fun.”

Silas: “I love you dad. (pause) But I love mama more.”

Danny: (laughing)

Silas: “Why are you laughing?”

Ramadan 2007: day 30

Ramadan 2007 Day 30 - small